Film in the Fridge » Tutorials

an updated blocks and stripes quilt… plus a quick tutorial

admin — Tue, 09 Feb 2010 15:00:44 +0000

I tend to buy fabrics with smaller prints for use in quilts, yet I’m often still drawn to busier prints, or those with larger designs. Then I buy them and they sit in my stash because I can’t seem to work them into a quilt top. I decided to come up with a quilt design which would allow me to use one of those great fabrics as the backing along with coordinating prints for the quilt top. The measurements are such so that you can use a single piece of regular width fabric for the backing.

If you want to make a similar quilt, here are the measurements and other info -

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Materials required for a baby quilt, which measures about 38″ x 41″ (after washing):

1.5 yards backing fabric (you’ll need your backing to be about 48″ by the width of fabric, so there will be a bit left over if you buy 1.5 yards)

20 corresponding 8.5″ squares of printed fabrics (a layer cake would work really well here, or 1/4 yard cuts or fat quarters). You’ll need 20 different fabrics if you want each to be unique. Or you can duplicate some of the prints, as I did in this quilt, to reduce the number of printed fabrics you need.

A selection of solid fabrics, totaling just under 1/2 yard. See *notes below for possible variations for the solid sections.

Batting – a piece measuring approximately 44″ x 48″

1/2 yard fabric for binding

Note: 1/4 seam allowances used

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First you’ll need to pick a backing fabric. For this one, I used a piece of Alexander Henry My Secret Garden that I had in my stash for a long time. I really love it in its entirety, so I thought it would be perfect to use as a backing. From there I pulled out smaller prints in corresponding colors. I used a total of 17 prints, and used three of them twice.

Cut a total of 20 8.5″ squares from these printed fabrics.

You’ll make 4 rows of 5 blocks. I arranged mine on the floor, changing them around until I found a layout I liked.

Sew the 5 blocks together for each row and iron all seams. Each row should measure 8.5″ x 40.5″.

Now that all the blocks are done, you’ll work on the stripes. Each striped section is 4.5″ x 40.5″. For my quilt, I decided to use up some of my solid scraps, so I selected several which coordinated with the printed fabrics. I went for a scrappy, patchwork look, as you can see in the photo below -

For the first and third striped sections, you’ll need a selection of scraps that are 2″ by a variety of widths, and a selection that are 3″ by a variety of widths. The middle striped section is made up of two stripes of 2.5″ wide fabrics by a variety of widths. (You can change this up however you’d like – just make sure your finished width for each striped section equals 4.5″.)

For the first striped section, sew together the 2″ wide pieces, until you have a strip that’s at least 40.5″ long. Repeat with the 3″ wide pieces, again sewing them together until it measures at least 40.5″ long. (I staggered my pieces so that the seams in each strip would be offset from the seams in the second strip). Iron all seams, then sew the strips together, sewing along the long side. The 2″ section is on top. Iron that seam.

Repeat this process for each striped section. Each section should now measure 4.5″ x 40.5″.

(The second striped section is made up of 2 strips of 2.5″ wide fabrics sewn together, and the last section is a 3″ wide strip and a 2″ wide strip sewn together, with the 3″ wide strip at the top.)

*Notes: There are a variety of options for the solid striped sections. If you don’t like the scrappy look, you could opt to use one solid color for each striped section. Or it might be nice to use a few different shades of one color, etc…

Trim each strip to 40.5″ long. Now you’ll sew the first row of blocks to the first striped section. Continue sewing the blocks to the stripes until you have a completed quilt top measuring about 40.5″ x 44.5″. Finish the quilt by sandwiching, quilting and binding using your favorite methods.

I quilted this one with a grid pattern, varying the distance between the quilting lines. I was going for a bit of a ‘not so perfectly straight’ look, so I didn’t mark out any of the lines ahead of time. Inspiration for this quilt came from one of the first quilts I made, the original Blocks and Stripes quilt.

Also, I’d love to see it if you make a quilt from this tutorial! Please be sure to add photos to the Filminthefridge Quilts! Flickr group.

pretty quick pillowcase tutorial (& bonus french seam instructions)

admin — Thu, 28 Jan 2010 02:41:47 +0000

I guess you can read that anyway you’d like – this tutorial creates a pretty pillowcase, and it’s also pretty quick! And a bit addicting too. If you’re anything like me, you’ll want to just keep on making them.

As I said in the previous post, I based my measurements for Whitney’s pillowcase on a pillowcase that we have here. I don’t really know what a standard pillowcase size is, but these measurements result in a pillowcase that measures about 20″ x 29″. If you have a larger pillow, you may need to adjust your measurements accordingly. What’s nice about pillowcases is that the measurements don’t have to be so exact – there’s a pretty good chance that even if you’re shy an inch or so of fabric, you’ll still be able to stuff your pillow in its new case!

Materials:

1 yard of fabric per pillow (Note: if you want the cuff of the pillow to be a different fabric, you can reduce the main fabric to 3/4 of a yard, and add in 1/4 yard of a coordinating fabric for the cuff)

1.5″ x width of fabric for the trim (or, alternatively, you could use other trim here – I used rick rack for these pillowcases).

Note: For these pillowcases I used Anna Maria Horner flannels, which are a standard 42/44″ width. All fabrics have been prewashed.

2nd note: This works best with a non-directional print, due to the way it’s sewn together.

Let’s make a pillowcase!

Cut your fabric pieces. For each pillowcase you’ll need to cut one piece that’s 9″ by the width of fabric (this is for the cuff), and one piece that’s 26″ by the width of fabric (main body of the pillowcase). Leave the selvedges on the fabric. This will give you an extra bit of width, and they’ll be hidden when we finish the pillowcase with french seams later on. Cut the fabric you’re using for trim to 1.5″ by width of fabric.

Prepare your trim by folding it in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, and press.

Next we’ll sew the trim and cuff to the main body. To do this, stack these three fabrics together in this order — on the bottom, open up the 9″ cuff piece and place it face up. Next, align the long edge of the 26″ main body piece on top of the cuff piece, also face up, matching the selvedges. On top of this, align the raw edge of the trim and pin all three layers together. You might be able to see this better in the photo below:

Sew the entire length, sewing all three layers together using a 1/4″ seam allowance.

Now if you lift up the fabric for the cuff you’ll have a little something that looks like this -

Press the seam up, towards the cuff fabric. Then iron the top edge of the cuff under 1/4″.

Next, we’ll make the actual cuff by folding down the ironed edge to meet the trim. Leave about 1/4″ of the trim showing. Pin in place and iron the cuff edge.

Top stitch along this edge using a scant 1/4″ seam allowance, covering the stitch line you made when sewing on the trim.

It should be looking a bit more like a pillowcase now, and we’ll finish it up by sewing together the body of the pillowcase. As I mentioned in the beginning, I use french seams so there aren’t any exposed raw edges.

In order to do this, you’ll fold the pillowcase in half, wrong sides together, aligning the edges. Pin along both edges, making sure that the cuff edges match.

Sew along the two edges, using a 1/4″ seam allowance. Trim your corners, then flip inside out. Press both seams so you have a nice straight edge.

Sew these two edges again, this time using a 3/8″ seam allowance. This will enclose the raw edges inside the new seam.

Flip right side out and admire your pretty new pillowcase!

patchwork napkins!

admin — Wed, 21 Oct 2009 16:13:56 +0000

Well that was a quick break, right?

Actually, this is just a quick post to let you know that I have a new tutorial for patchwork napkins available. It’s posted today on Sew Mama Sew, so if you haven’t already been over there, head on over and take a look! Be sure to check out all the other wonderful scrap projects as well!

And now, back to my break!

(a huge thank you to everyone who commented on yesterday’s post – I really appreciate the support!)

quartered squares – a modified bento box block tutorial

ashley — Wed, 24 Jun 2009 13:00:59 +0000

As promised!

(Please keep in mind that this is just a quick little tutorial to show you how I constructed the blocks for my modified bento box quilt. There are tutorials you can purchase for the standard bento box quilt – I’ve never seen the pattern, and I really have no idea how the blocks are constructed in the pattern. I’m led to believe that this is not the same method, so I feel ok posting it here…)

The measurements provided are what I used for my quilt, but the technique would be the same if you decided to change the size of your strips, or the final size of your blocks. Using this method you’ll construct large blocks which you’ll then cut into quarters. These measurements produce a block that is 16″ square (or 15.5″ square, if you’re like me and aren’t as precise!) which is then cut into four blocks that are 8″ square (or 7.75″ in my case!) Please note that 1/4″ seam allowances are used.

All that being said, let’s get started! First off, select a bunch of fabrics you’d like to use. I probably used around 10-15 prints and about 5 solids for my version, but this is totally up to you!

Select a fabric for the center of your block and cut this to 6″ square. Then select the fabric for the second ring of the square. This fabric will be cut to 1 1/2″ wide. You need 2 pieces 1.5″ x 6″ and 2 pieces 1.5″ x 8″.

Sew the shorter strips to the opposite sides of the square. Press. (I press mine to one side, but you could certainly press your seams open if you’d rather). Repeat this process for the second set of opposing strips. Press again.

The next ring is 2″ wide, and for this ring you’ll need 2 strips that are 2″ x 8″ and 2 strips that are 2″ x 11″. Repeat the process to sew the shorter strips to opposing sides, and press. Repeat with the next set of opposing strips.

The third ring is 1.25″ wide, and for this ring you’ll need 2 strips that are 1.25″ x 11″ and 2 that are 1.25″ x 12.5″. Repeat steps from above.

The last ring is 2.25″ wide. For this one you’ll need 2 strips 2.25″ x 12.5″ and 2 that are 2.25 x 16″.

In theory, this should result in a block that is 16″ square. (this assumes that you have perfect 1/4″ seams and that your ironing skills are spot on!). In reality, my blocks always ended up just shy of 16″ square, so instead of worrying about it, I opted to trim them down to 15.5″ square. I just eyeballed it and trimmed a bit from each side, but in order to make sure everything lines up correctly, you’ll should mark the center of the block and measure out 7.75″ from the center on each side and use this as a trim line.

Once your block is square, you can simply cut it into four equal pieces. In my example, with a 15.5″ block, I measured in 7.75″ and cut the block in half and then repeated for the other side.

You’ll now have four equal blocks that are 7.75″ square. (or 8″ square if your sewing and ironing skills are better than mine!)

Repeat the process for constructing these blocks, changing up your fabrics and the placements of those fabrics and then rearrange the quarter squares into full blocks.

Sew your blocks back together, and then sew all the large blocks together into a quilt top! For the quilt I made, I made a total of 12 full blocks, which resulted in a smallish quilt, measuring about 40″ x 54″ after washing.

Enjoy! And as always, feel free to comment with any questions or if you spot any errors!

Oh, and an aside – I made this block for the tutorial, but don’t have any plans for it… if anyone’s interested in these 4 quarter blocks, leave a comment. If more than one person is interested, I’ll let random.org pick someone tomorrow!

Edited to add: The winner has been selected – Congrats to Jessica Brown!

a string quilt block tutorial – paper pieced method

admin — Mon, 27 Apr 2009 14:14:20 +0000

I’m so blown away by all the wonderful comments on my string quilt, now aptly named ‘Kaleidoscope’ (many thanks to Kerri who was the first to suggest it, followed by 9 others of you who had the same thought!) I think it’s just perfect.

And now, a quick tutorial – I had a few requests for a tutorial on making this type of quilt, so I figured I’d oblige (it’s the least I can do, right?). This shows the paper piecing method, which is my preferred method.

To start, you’ll want to decide on the size of your blocks. For the Kaleidoscope quilt, my blocks were 11″ square. In this tutorial, I’m using 7″ square blocks. I use cheap copy paper, but you could use anything you have on hand – I’ve heard pages from phone books work! – just as long as it’s not a heavyweight paper.

Cut squares of your desired size from the copy paper and set aside.

Decide on your fabrics and cut strips of a variety of widths. I cut strips of 1″ – 2.5″. I like the way it looks with a variety of widths, but you could also cut strips all the same width if you’d prefer. Set these aside.

I wanted to have a small strip of white separate the squares in my quilt, so I cut 1″ strips of a solid white fabric. You could opt for any other solid color – I used green in this baby quilt, or you could use one patterned fabric to tie everything together, or you could skip it completely.

Next we’ll temporarily attach the white strips to the paper squares. With the fabric right side up, lay the strip diagonally on the block. I use a little glue from a glue stick to dab on the back of the fabric strip so it will stick to the paper. You want to make sure that each strip is centered on the diagonal so that your strips will line up with you sew the blocks together. I eyeball mine (’cause I’m lazy!) but you may want to use a ruler and draw a pencil line through the diagonal to help with placement.

Now you can start sewing on your fabric strips! The first strip should be long enough to cover the section of paper right next to the piece glued on the diagonal. You’ll lay your first strip right side down on top of the strip glued to the block.

(please ignore my wrinkly fabric! I’m not much for ironing!)

Align the edges and sew with a 1/4″ seam allowance. Very important: be sure to reduce your stitch length! This will allow you to easily remove the paper from the back later. My machine is typically set at 2.5 – I’ve found that reducing it to 1.5 works well.

Sew along this edge (right through the paper), then iron open with a dry iron. (some may want to skip the ironing, and just finger press – that’s up to you).

Repeat this process, aligning another strip to the strip you just attached, again, right sides together.

Iron open and repeat until you’ve covered the entire paper square. It will look something like this.

Now you can flip the square over so you can see the paper square on the back. Using your clear ruler and rotary cutter, trim the excess fabric, using the paper square as a guide.

And now you’ve completed your first block! I leave the paper on my blocks until I have them all completed.

Repeat for all your paper squares. Then you can arrange them as you like -

When you have your blocks completed, you’ll want to remove the paper from the back. If you’ve reduced the stitch length, the paper should appear almost perferated. I fold the paper along the stitch line and then tear away.

Sew your blocks together and admire your lovely quilt top!

Getting ready for summer… a beach bag tutorial

admin — Sat, 28 Feb 2009 17:03:04 +0000

Thank you all for your nice comments about my Orla Kiely beach bag, and also for all the congratulations on the upcoming wedding! And now, a little something for you, in the form of a tutorial. (I wish it was a giveaway instead, but that might have to wait until after the wedding!)

This bag is constructed in much the same way as my market bag (market bag tutorial here), though the measurements have been adjusted to create a larger bag, complete with a large pocket and removable solid bottom (that makes it different enough, right?!)

I realize that summer beach days are still a ways off for most of us in the country… but maybe this bag could be used for something else while you wait for summer? I think I’ll use mine to bring home all the stuff I’ve bought while in Florida (9 yards of extra wide Kona cotton… oh yes, I definitely needed it!)

As you already saw, I used Orla Kiely dishtowels for these bags. They’re made of a nice heavy cotton and seem to work well for this project. Plus, they should still be available at your local Target store. The measurements are based on the measurements of these towels (20″ x 30″), but if you didn’t want to use these, other dishtowels would work, or any fabric you have on hand (I imagine it would be quite nice in a home dec weight cotton).

For this project you’ll need four dishtowels. These particular dishtowels are sold in packs of two, one printed and one solid. The two printed towels will make up the outside of the bag and the two solid towels will become the inside.

Note: 1/4″ seam allowance used

I tried to maximize the size of my bag, so I used a seam ripper to open up the hem on one printed and one solid towel. The front and back panels of the outside and inside are cut from one towel each. After opening the hem, cut the towel in half across the width of the towel. Due to the way the towel is hemmed, you’ll need to cut off the top edges where it’s cut on a diagonal. You will have four panels, each measuring 22″ across by 14″ high.

The remaining pieces will be cut from the two remaining towels. My diagram below shows how I cut out these pieces out of each towel. You’ll cut two straps, each 2″ in width, the length of the towel. The bottom of the bag is 15″ by 6.5″, and a pocket, which is 14″ by 10.5″. The remaining section can be used to cover the removable bottom. Cut the same pieces from the second towel.

Make the straps:

Match one printed strap and one solid strap, right sides together and sew along both long edges. Turn right side out and top stitch along each of the long edges.

Attach the inside pocket:

Hem the perimeter of the pocket piece and pin to the right side of one of your liner pieces. I like to center the pocket across the width, and attach it about 3/4″ from the bottom of the right side of the liner piece.

Attach the pocket to the liner piece, sewing along three sides, leaving the top open. At this point, you can decide if you want to sew in any dividers. I did an offset divided pocket on the first, and stitched a line right down the center on this one, creating two equal pockets.

Sew the lining:

Put the two lining pieces right sides together and stitch along both short edges.

Now attach the lining bottom piece. With right sides together, center the long edge of the bottom piece along the bottom edge of one lining piece, as pictured here -

Stitch along this edge, starting and stopping 1/4″ from each edge.

Repeat to attach the second side to the second lining piece. You now have the shape of a bag, with an opening at either end of the bottom piece.

Take the short edge of the bottom and align it with the bottom edge of the lining pieces that have not yet been sewn, as pictured – (repeat for second short edge)

Now you should have a completed bag, as such

Repeat the same steps (Sew the lining) to create the outside of the bag.

Now you’re ready to put the bags together! There are two methods – probably a right and a wrong… who knows!

Method 1:

Place the outside bag inside the liner, right sides together. Slip the handles in between these two layers, right sides together (the straps should be positioned straight, not on an angle as pictured below!). Pin and sew along the top edge, leaving an opening large enough to pull the bag pieces through. Fold in the raw edges of the opening and top stitch around the top edge.

Method 2: (my preferred method, though maybe just because it’s the way I’ve always done it…)

Place the liner inside the outer bag, wrong sides together, lining up the side seams. Fold the top edges inwards and iron flat. Slip the handles in between the layers, positioning them as you’d like. I placed mine about 4″ from each seam.

Topstitch along the top edge. To make sure the handles are secured, I also add an additional stitch line, about 1/4″ below the topstitched line.

Making the removable bag bottom:

I used cardboard pieces to create a solid bottom for this bag. My cardboard was a bit thin, so I used two layers. Use your remaining fabric to create a sleeve for the cardboard. On my first bag, I had enough of the printed towel, but on this one I did not, so I used the remaining liner fabric.

Cut the cardboard 6″ x 14 1/2″. Take your remaining fabric piece and cut a piece large enough to fit around the cardboard, leaving enough extra for the seam allowance. My two pieces of cardboard put together measured 1/4″ thick, so I cut the fabric 13″ wide. It measured 15″ in length already, and the piece I had leftover already was hemmed on one end, which I left as the opening.

With right sides together, sew along the long edge, then flatten the tube so that the seam is in the center of one side. Sew the un-hemmed edge shut.

Flip right side out and slide the cardboard inside. If you leave the hemmed edge open, you can replace the cardboard if needed, or remove it for washing.

Trim all threads and admire your new large tote bag!

As always, feel free to email me with any questions!

Time to decorate! A paper (fabric) chain tutorial

admin — Mon, 01 Dec 2008 16:58:14 +0000

I try not to start decorating for Christmas until after Thanksgiving has passed, so we waited until Saturday to buy a wreath for our front door. Now that the turkey’s been carved and leftovers eaten, I feel like it’s ok for me to put the Christmas mix back on the ipod and let it get a little play time and to start with a little decorating.

We don’t have our tree yet, but I started this little project which will be used to decorate the tree. I’ve always loved paper chains, and decided to upgrade it a bit this year, using my favorite fabrics.

For this project, you’ll need a selection of fabric, and some heavy fusible interfacing. (Velcro and/or snaps would be needed if you decide to go for the optional fastening method).

To start I selected a number of fabrics – some of my larger scraps, as well as a few favorite fabrics. I used a variety of colors, but this could be made using red, green and white fabrics, or fabrics of a particular hue, or anything that fits the look you’re going for.

I cut each piece to 3″ x 9.5″. You could vary these measurements depending on how wide you want your chains to be. (I wouldn’t recommend going smaller than a width of 2.5″ or you may find it too difficult to turn the fabric right side out.)

At the same time, I cut a piece of heavy fusible interfacing. You’ll want the interfacing to be about 1/2 an inch smaller in width and about an inch shorter in length than the size of the fabric once it’s sewn into its final shape. I cut mine to about 1″ x 8.5″. You’ll need one strip of interfacing for each fabric strip you cut.

Take your fabric piece and fold it lengthwise, right sides together. Sew along the long edge using a 1/4″ seam allowance.

Turn right side out and iron flat, placing the seam in the middle of one side (this will be the inside of the ring). Insert the interfacing strip, positioning the fusible side so it will be attached to the side of the ring which will face the outside (the side without the seam). I attach a safety pin to one end of the interfacing so I can use that to pull the interfacing through the tube we’ve just created.

Repeat this process for all the fabric pieces you’ve cut out, making as many as you’d like to make a chain of your desired length.

Now you’ll want to attach these pieces together to form the rings. You could order them as you’d like and simply sew the ends together, interlocking the rings as you go.

Or, if you want to make a chain where the rings could be opened and reorganized, you may want to use velcro or snaps as the fastener for each ring. I like this idea, as your fabric chain could then be used as a toy for children when it’s not in use as decoration!

Cut a small piece of velcro, about an inch square and sew one side of the velcro to the end of one of your strips. Sew the second piece to the reverse side of the other side of the strip. (I make sure to tuck the unfinished edge up and position it under the velcro to create a clean edge.)

Once you have the velcro sewn to each strip, you can put your chain together any way you’d like!

Make your table pretty! A Reversible Rick Rack Napkin Tutorial

admin — Wed, 19 Nov 2008 15:09:07 +0000

Thanks for all the comments on my giveaway post! It sounds like there are some great homemade/handmade gifts in the works for this year. I don’t think anyone mentioned napkins, so I thought I’d provide you with another gift idea. These napkins make great gifts, or are also perfect as hostess gifts, or work quite well to add some color to your table! (Plus, you can make them with two different fabrics, so they can be reversible – two napkins in one!)

I fully intended to write up this tutorial months ago, but apparently time got away from me. I was reminded of it yesterday by a fellow blogger and I thought this might be a perfect time to share it.

I like square napkins, but you could certainly cut your fabric any size or shape you’d like. For this napkin, I selected two Heather Bailey fabrics – the lovely Pop Daisy in red and the complimentary red Zig Zag. I cut each to 13 1/2″ square. I use this size so that I can cut three out of the width of your standard 42/44″ wide fabric. (I pre-wash my fabric when making napkins)

I selected red rick rack for the trim. I’m partial to the vintage cotton rick rack if you can find it, but any would work here. If you are using vintage cotton, you may want to pre-wash the rick rack.

The rick rack will be sewn to the right side of one of the fabric squares (I usually sew it to the fabric that will be the top). This next photo shows how you’ll turn the rick rack at the corners

I’m lazy, so I don’t bother pinning it, but if you’d like, you could pin the rick rack in place along the edge. I trim a bit off the end of the rick rack so I have a clean edge. You’ll want to make sure that you start with the cut edge facing the outer edge of your fabric, as seen below. This way the cut edge will end up hidden when it’s sewn together. I start in the middle of one edge of the fabric and sew a straight line down the middle of the rick rack. I position it so that the outer bumps of the rick rack are lined up with the edge of the fabric.

When you reach a corner, leave the needle in the down position and turn. You’ll turn the rick rack as well so that it lines up with the next edge.

Overlap the rick rack where you started and backstitch to secure.

When completed, it will look like this

Next you’ll put the second square on top of this one, right sides together

You sew around the perimeter again, leaving an opening about 4″ long so you can turn it right side out. I try to sew along the same line I just made when attaching the rick rack. (As an alternative, if you want to skip a step, you could certainly skip sewing the rick rack to the front, and simply pin it securely and sew everything together in this step. I like to do it separately to make sure the rick rack is attached correctly.)

Clip the corners, turn right side out, and iron the edges flat. You may need to pull on some of the rick rack points as you iron – this can help to make sure you get a clean edge. Make sure to iron in the unsewn section – this opening will be sewn shut in the next step.

This is the last step! Simply topstitch around the entire napkin. This closes that opening and provides a nice finished look. You can even be creative here – I used a straight stitch, but you could use a zig zag, or any other decorative stitch you may have on your machine.

And here you have your lovely completed napkin! It can be folded any way you’d like – I like it as a square, with two sides of rick rack showing, or folded in thirds, with rick rack showing along the bottom edge.

And don’t forget, it’s reversible! (though I should mention that I often make these using one printed fabric for the top and then a solid white for the backing. Both are quite lovely!) Enjoy!

To market, to market… A Market Bag Tutorial

admin — Thu, 28 Aug 2008 17:34:34 +0000

This is my first tutorial, and it comes during the same week that I’ve given up coffee, so hopefully this makes sense (and if it doesn’t, let me know and let’s just blame it on the lack of caffeine!)

I make two versions of this market bag, and I use both on a daily basis. I made a number of one style recently, as shown here and here. These have side panels and end up measuring about 15″ across when laid flat. The bottom of this bag is about 3.5″ across, which sounds small, but since it’s fabric, it does actually accommodate quite a bit.

In any case, my sister has one of these bags, and continues to tell me that it doesn’t perfectly fit all the items she typically packs in there. Hence the second version. I made this one with her in mind, eliminating the side panels and making the main portion of the bag a couple inches larger. I also made the bottom about an inch wider, and the resulting bag is a better size. I suppose I’ll have to let her test it out to see if it works better for her needs!

This tutorial will be for the second version, which seems easier to make, as it requires less sewing and cutting. The measurements I’ve decided on allow me to cut 2 bags out of 2 yards of fabric (1 yard for the lining for 2 bags and 1 yard for the outside for 2 bags). These measurements could certainly be adjusted based on your own needs. So here we go… (please note that you can click on any photo to enlarge it)

Market Bag Tutorial

To start, I select two coordinating fabrics. Today I’ll show a bag made of Alexander Henry Birdseed in Pink, with Amy Butler Full Moon Polka Dot in Cherry for the lining (although it should be noted that this bag is reversible, so that’s something to consider when selecting fabrics!)

Next you’ll cut out the pieces for the bag. You’ll need 4 pieces for the main part of the bag – 2 out of the main fabric, and 2 out of the lining fabric. Each piece measures 18.5″ by 13″. You will also need 2 pieces for the bottom of the bag (one piece from each fabric). These should measure 14″ by 5″. The last pieces to cut are the pieces for the straps – again, 4 total – 2 from each fabric. These should measure 27″ by 2″.

I use a piece of interfacing on each of the bottom pieces for a little added support. This is optional, of course, but if you go this route, you’ll need to cut two pieces of interfacing, cut slightly smaller than the bottom pieces (I don’t like to sew through the interfacing, so I cut it about 1/4″ smaller than the bottom pieces. Iron these pieces to the wrong side of each fabric.

Now on to the sewing – I usually start with the lining, but the order really makes no difference. You’ll start with the main pieces for the bag. With right sides together, pin the rectangles together along the short edges. Each short edge will be sewn down the entire length, using whatever seam allowance you like. (Make sure you remember what you used, as you’ll want to use the same for the second fabric set).

Once both sides are sewn, it’s time to attach the bottom piece. Again, with right sides together, you’ll want to center the bottom rectangle along the bottom edge of the main section (you should have about 2 – 2.5″ on each side). This piece will be sewn along that edge, using the same seam allowance. On this piece however, you’ll start sewing about 1/4″ in and will end about 1/4″ before the end. Repeat, attaching the other side of the bottom panel to the main section of the bag. (I switched fabrics here, but you get the idea!)

Now you should have a bag that has a bottom, with an opening on either side of the bottom panel.

This part is tricky to explain, but here goes! You will now sew the short edge of the bottom panel to the remaining fabric from the main part of the bag. I typically hold it so that the short edge of the bottom is facing up. I then pull the sides of the bag out to the sides, making a sort of pyramid. That short edge will be sewn to the bottom edge of the main portion (the part that hasn’t yet been sewn). Maybe a photo will help.

Sew along this edge, starting from where you ended your sewing on the bottom panel, across to the stitch line on the opposite side of the bottom panel. Repeat for the opposite side.

You’ll now have a very basic bag. You can turn it right side out and you’ll see the final shape of the bag. At this point I make sure that there aren’t any holes in the corners, then trim as necessary. Repeat the entire process with the second fabric.

Next I sew the straps. I take one of each fabric strip and put them right side together. You’ll sew along the long side. If you wanted, you could then sew along the other long side and then flip it inside out and topstitch. I don’t use this method, though it’s probably easier. Instead, after sewing one long side together, I iron it flat and then fold and iron so the right sides are facing out. I then fold and iron along the unsewn long edge and then topstitch both sides.

Now we’ll put the bag together! Take the bag with the main fabric (the one you want on the outside) and turn it right side out. Keep the bag with the lining fabric inside out and place the lining bag inside the other, lining up the seams.

Fold the fabrics inward at the top (right sides facing each other), creating a clean top edge, and pin and iron. Then insert the straps between the two fabrics. I tend to put them about 3″ from the side seam of the main panel. Once all pinned and looking as you’d like, you’ll sew along the top edge. I typically use a small straight stitch, but a zig zag is also fun.

Trim all threads, et voila!… a finished bag! Great for groceries, books, beach stuff, you name it!

Enjoy!

Update: I went a little market bag crazy recently, and now have a few for sale here!